As late July’s heat hangs and the humidity rises, bodies grow heavy and slump in the ever-present languor of the day. My tea practice, too, finds the warmth unbearable save for the earliest of morning and the final darkness of the day. Here I find a momentary respite and relief from the heat of Summer’s end and the approach of an eventual Autumn’s arrival.
Traditionally this was a time of year to avoid strenuous work lest one’s constitution weaken and succumb to illness. In the cultures of East Asia, where tea practice first took root and evolved, folk traditions abound which met the need to abate the potential spread of plague. One such practice, which continues today in the Gion district of Kyōto, is 祇園祭 Gion Matsuri.
Originating as a 御霊会 goryō-e, purification rituals to appease evil gods and the spirits of the dead following a plague epidemic that ravaged Kyōto in 869, it has since evolved into a complex series of ceremonies and events that span the whole of July, many of which still maintain their original purpose of promoting health and protecting the local population from sickness during the high heat of Summer.
Just as the year makes its way towards the first days of Major Heat (大暑 Taisho in Japanese), things couldn’t get worse in my household. Having just recently celebrated her fourth month, my daughter received a series of inoculations and, subsequently, came down with a fever. Stressed to see her in such a state, my wife and I found ourselves barely sleeping for three days straight, seeing to the needs and recovery of our young daughter. Our minds in a constant daze, we’d often imagine of ways to comfort her.
On the third night her fever began to break but I still could not sleep. As my wife and child rested, I stepped out into the early twilight to prepare to practice tea. The garden still asleep, I make my way across the span that separates my home and hut in which I have been making tea in now for three years.
I light incense in the dark empty space of the tea room. In the alcove I set a single flower, a purple 木槿 mukuge (Rose of Sharon), its buds still unopened. I carry water, kettle, and other assorted wares with me into the wooden shed, leaving the door ajar as if to invite the growing light of early morning to join me.
At this early hour the world is quiet. The sounds of human activity remain mostly dormant. No low hum of engines, no high peal of aircraft, no chatter of neighbors, nor the throb of a lawn mower in the distance to busy my mind. Just the sound of the kettle and the water within it coming to a boil. Just the song of morning birds. Of crows in the pine trees waking. Of deer gently crushing grass beneath their hooves. Of the tree branch lightly tapping the moss-covered roof of my makeshift tea hut.
In the pristine world of the morning I begin to cleanse the objects to make tea.
Lacquer catches the light as does inlaid abalone on a tea container covered with seven precious objects.
A wide antique teabowl, moistened 茶巾 chakin, weathered whisk.
Objects first set side-by-side, then one in front of the next.
The lacquer is wiped and so, too, is the 茶杓 chashaku.
The old teabowl is emptied of its objects before hot water from the kettle is poured within it.
Uncovered, the center reveals a circle where once in the kiln another bowl would have rested. Now, in my mind, I think of an 円相 ensō. A circle painted with a single stroke, its sured path reflecting the perfect peace of mind.
The circle, too, carries an additional meaning during Summer, calling to mind 茅の輪 chinowa, temporary circular portals of cogon grass through which people pass during Summer purification rites, to help protect them from sickness and evil.
The whisk is wetted and flexed in the hot water.
The bowl is emptied and wiped clean. I breathe and pause for a moment to think about those who still sleep inside my home. My daughter who has been fighting a fever. My wife, who has been unwavering in helping her through her momentary suffering.
As I lift the chashaku and then lacquered 棗 natsume, I expand the circle wider. I think about my parents and their health. To my sister and brother-in-law and their newborn child. To my wife’s mother. To her late father. To my wider family and dear friends. To those who have passed through my lives. To those I’ve never met. To my teacher.
Three scoops of tea. Cool water from the 水指 mizusashi mixed with the hot water of the kettle.
The cup of the 柄杓 hishaku bows and pours half of its contents into the open 茶碗 chawan.
Tea powder and water blend and the concoction is whisked into a velvety foam.
Once prepared, I reset my stance and offer the bowl to the space of the guest.
I stand and place myself where the guest would sit.
I enjoy, first a sweet.
Then the bowl of fresh 薄茶 usucha.
Once drunk, I let myself sit for a while to meditate.
Tea was once and still is seen as a medicine. Its bitterness a quality first favored by the peoples who first cultivated the plant more than six thousand years ago in a region that now straddles the borders of Laos, Myanmar, northern Thailand, southeastern Tibet, Yúnnán and Sìchuān, probably first as a food source and then as a sort of panacea to ward off a multitude of ailments.
While it has become a trend for modern audiences to paint the practice of tea as an exercise in mindfulness, with the rather whimsical (if not overly exotifying) marketing casting it as some form of mystical art in the same way zen or yoga or the other myriad of Eastern-born cultural traditions have been exploited and re-imagined for capital gain, tea, and the various practices that it can engender, can support a healthy life.
Away from the panoptic gaze of social media and its pervasive voyeuristic demands to capture and ostensibly share everything, away from the crowds that flock to public tea events and performative demonstrations, away from the pay-to-learn pathways that might lead the unknowing astray, and away from the targeted advertising of tea as a lifestyle, there is a humble and down-to-earth practice of tea that is healthy.
As I continue to deepen my tea practice, my desire to write and photograph and share tea in virtual manner is fading. The weight of life and supporting those in my life has grown and, with it, its importance. Tea, and my daily practice of tea, has also grown, equally, if not more so, than ever before. And, yet, the weight of it has lightened.
Like a great bundle of extraneous “stuff” I’ve carried for years, I feel the congestion of my old practice lifting and dropping off my shoulders. The worries and desires melt away. The wanting to make big waves subsiding and calming in favor to small ripples. What I crave now, more than ever, is the intimacy of sharing tea with myself and the moment, or, at most, between one or two other friends. My wife. My child. My teacher. An honored guest. An old friend.
I share these little glimpses into my practice because I know there are some who use them as a meditation and, as someone who appreciates tea writings, I, too, hope my readers find some value in what I write. However, to read about tea and then to actually sit for tea are two very different things.
I practice for a multitude of reasons. For enjoyment, for relaxation, for focus, for a form of deeper understanding that comes when I can just sit and make a bowl of tea. There are many movements that come before I sit. Many actions that come together before I can make a bowl of 抹茶 matcha. I must be limber and fit to sit in 正座 seiza for several hours at a time. I must be mentally and physically alert to prepare tea at any hour. I must be flexible enough sit and be fully present in times that are agreeable and disagreeable. I must be resilient to do this not just once but for many years. For a lifetime.
All of this helps. It is a sort of medicine I make for myself and, perhaps, for others too. This is, as I see it, tea for health.
With wares cleaned again, I pause once more. In shadows cast by growing morning light, objects and their shapes become more pronounced. In these shadows and with the sun’s glow that joins me, I decide to make a final 拝見 haiken.
Light glints and bends off of the rounded shape of the lacquered natsume. The various images of the 七寶 shichihō, which often make their first appearance during New Years, have been chosen again, this time as a symbolic safeguard against illness. Seven treasures, each with their own purported powers, have been dutifully applied in gold lacquer 蒔絵 maki-e by master artisan 市中 五稜 Ichinaka Goryō, with a noted exception of the 隠れ笠, kakuregasa (“hat of invisibility”), which he rendered with a thin veneer of iridescent abalone shell.
Next, I reach behind me and grasp the handle of the chashaku. From left to right hand the object passes until it, too, is placed atop the wooden 香盆 kōbon.
Finally, both object placed side-by-side, I sit and appreciate the qualities of both wares.
The the early morning light, the objects appear softer, lighter.
Undulations of the chashaku scoop and the minute remains of tea dust that still cling to its tip appear in a dreamlike state.
The glow of the abalone catching reflections of daylight.
In selecting these objects I make a nod to the time of year and the significance the growing heat can have on one’s health. With talismanic imagery such as the shichihō, the mukuge, the chinowa, I acknowledge and hope to assuage the anxiety I have as a parent trying to keep my child healthy.
This practice I’ve conducted over what is now twenty years, has evolved. The challenge that comes from making tea, in the growing heat of Summer and in the growing heat of this little world, I find myself returning back to this practice now more than ever.
When a child is sick, when the world is ailed, there exists for a moment a sense of hopelessness. The mind stirs and cannot rest. Where one once found comfort, either in sleep or joyful activity, now feels unbearable. All one can do is to sit and meditate. In the meditation that is tea practice, I find I can engage with these emotions, with the difficulties of these situations.
Rather than be a distraction or anecdote to the stress of the modern and wounded world, tea is a mirror, a microscope to the microcosm that is the self.
To bring awareness that one is sitting amidst the world of agreeable and disagreeable situations, here is where one will acquire the strength to endure.
As light filters through the open door, as the heat of the day rises, I look to the alcove to see that the purple mukuge flower has opened.